tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-47675797630869110452024-02-21T23:33:35.140-08:00Jane SigalAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07183080648783638696noreply@blogger.comBlogger7125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4767579763086911045.post-12275501738537929672014-01-24T05:26:00.000-08:002014-01-24T05:26:28.300-08:00Scallop roe<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">At Bones restaurant in Paris, chef James Henry reserves the gorgeous coral from Brittany sea scallops; 43 rue Godefroy Cavaignac, 11th arrond.; bonesparis.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">He brines it in salted water for 12 hours, then dehydrates it to create intensely flavored scallop chips to use like dried shrimp.</span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07183080648783638696noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4767579763086911045.post-39465189781585847702014-01-19T07:15:00.000-08:002014-10-02T12:08:26.621-07:00Stats: Spring<br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">a night, Chicago-born chef-owner Daniel Rose lops off the cork of a Champagne bottle with a saber at his Paris restaurant, Spring, 6 rue Bailleul, 1st arrond.; </span><b style="background-color: white; color: #006621; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 16px; white-space: nowrap;">spring</b><span style="background-color: white; color: #006621; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 16px; white-space: nowrap;">paris.fr. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Servers ask guests if they'd like to know what's on the night's 84-euro prix fixe or be surprised. "There is no menu," says Rose. "We just make dinner."</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Sample of a dinner worksheet.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">44</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">A team of five cooks, plus two apprentices turns out Paris-via-Chicago food for about 60 guests at dinner in two dining rooms, upstairs and</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">downstairs.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">19</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Spring executive chef Gilles Chesneau (left) worked with Michelin-three-star Guy Savoy for almost two decades at restaurant Guy Savoy (</span><b style="background-color: white; color: #006621; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 16px; white-space: nowrap;">guysavoy</b><span style="background-color: white; color: #006621; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 16px; white-space: nowrap;">.com</span><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">) in Paris. He also re-opened the celebrated nouvelle cuisine restaurant Le Chiberta (</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #006621; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 16px; white-space: nowrap;">le</span><b style="background-color: white; color: #006621; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 16px; white-space: nowrap;">chiberta</b><span style="background-color: white; color: #006621; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 16px; white-space: nowrap;">.com)</span><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"> next to the Champs-Elysées for Savoy before joining Rose at Spring. "Why do I hire guys with so much experience," Rose says. "So I can learn something."</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">800</span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Argentine-born maître d' Guillermo Campos oversaw dining rooms in Paris palace hotels turning out meals for 800. Now at Spring he smiles all the time.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">500</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">a week need laundering.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">1.2</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">of chicken wings were purchased to make chicken stock in the first year Spring opened on the Rue de </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Bailleul. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">staff</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">make Spring run smoothly.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">28</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">years old</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Median age of Spring employees.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">8 1/2</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Spring staffers have a happy family life. Rose's second child is on the way.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">5</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">exes</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">First you have to find the right partner; being with someone else in the restaurant business helps.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">1 </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">cookbook</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Rose self-published his first book—illustrated with his own drawings—in 2013, available at the restaurant and online at </span><b style="background-color: white; color: #006621; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 16px; white-space: nowrap;">spring</b><span style="background-color: white; color: #006621; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 16px; white-space: nowrap;">paris.fr</span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">. His inspiration comes from traditional cookbooks, like Escoffier's "Guide Culinaire" and French publisher Robert Lafont's nouvelle cuisine chef series. "I'm trying to do classic French food," he says, "</span><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">when everybody else is trying to mix it up."</span></div>
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07183080648783638696noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4767579763086911045.post-24065558233341146912014-01-18T09:15:00.003-08:002014-01-18T09:24:43.737-08:00Stats: L'Ami Jean<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">40 to 50 </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">come for Paris chef Stéphane Jégo's bistro classics prepared with exquisite ingredients, like braised beef with carrots and a creamy omelet with </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">sautéed fresh cèpe (porcini) mushrooms and chopped parsley</span><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">, made by whipping the eggs with an immersion blender. </span><b style="background-color: white; color: #006621; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 16px; white-space: nowrap;">lamijean</b><span style="background-color: white; color: #006621; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 16px; white-space: nowrap;">.fr</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">"</span><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">We're a Deux Chevaux with a Ferrari engine," Jégo says of the restaurant.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbYYPNYSGo3iaNDaY30cDrQ9YkKcH0FG6swSwmu99djpuXvWgR9KFhgJioGzUMMLYu-G5WYKhSuwfaLUWN84g7VMYzt5PiMwn_T0f9hZN_kObTMxWfAHx5XEIiENbLMp0jKRk22de7JjU/s1600/2014-01-16+18.36.34.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbYYPNYSGo3iaNDaY30cDrQ9YkKcH0FG6swSwmu99djpuXvWgR9KFhgJioGzUMMLYu-G5WYKhSuwfaLUWN84g7VMYzt5PiMwn_T0f9hZN_kObTMxWfAHx5XEIiENbLMp0jKRk22de7JjU/s1600/2014-01-16+18.36.34.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">1 </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">"I was constantly on the phone with suppliers," he says. "I couldn't peel an onion without being interrupted. Texting changed my life."</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Jégo, a Breton, kept the original southwestern accent, setting the tables with fresh Basque linens, when he purchased the spot more than 10 years ago and </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihGoHHWT5S5SDQui5N41jcAvlprvrx-xJsgvDBbsfAH9fdv_IocUMdJFuUs3NOJyR1okSEY1ZT_EJ_apGTO6VcGCPDXEJVF10VtlFW6Zb-Oof45GIdlM80DOnCSx86Rqw7IjNieysxsZo/s1600/2014-01-16+19.17.51.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihGoHHWT5S5SDQui5N41jcAvlprvrx-xJsgvDBbsfAH9fdv_IocUMdJFuUs3NOJyR1okSEY1ZT_EJ_apGTO6VcGCPDXEJVF10VtlFW6Zb-Oof45GIdlM80DOnCSx86Rqw7IjNieysxsZo/s1600/2014-01-16+19.17.51.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">added his own fun style.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">80</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">plus up to 10 walk-ins. At night, Jégo divides the menu between traditional à la carte choices and an inventive eight-course prix fixe, </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwTjGw82bENPJS3MDAZwE5JzAGTaJ3GxP6TV3Q0B7nGUvh1Mbpd7uwf4dg5eJFA4JQu-F8ZecUhyphenhyphenBZX32f0RmzKyb47AwcqDO3TVH3Q4eQnOVTKBPjxxCVxuJf3-kW4ThBFiMfN8SSWnE/s1600/2014-01-18+17.31.18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwTjGw82bENPJS3MDAZwE5JzAGTaJ3GxP6TV3Q0B7nGUvh1Mbpd7uwf4dg5eJFA4JQu-F8ZecUhyphenhyphenBZX32f0RmzKyb47AwcqDO3TVH3Q4eQnOVTKBPjxxCVxuJf3-kW4ThBFiMfN8SSWnE/s1600/2014-01-18+17.31.18.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">with suave dishes such as sautéed pétoncles (bay scallops) in the shell with chicken broth </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSekhlWuvyir1lqoFeL3F7BsMvLk6QLpbwaFsqplgIu6fYewKfYjXIvVhHRqU5wg_9JKar7QsWjulJS7NR0i4on_b5lFApAXRj4Pn1xphyphenhyphenb7v31V6G2ySaiiMAaTUGvDaGU9KBuRLfQjU/s1600/2014-01-16+20.22.40.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSekhlWuvyir1lqoFeL3F7BsMvLk6QLpbwaFsqplgIu6fYewKfYjXIvVhHRqU5wg_9JKar7QsWjulJS7NR0i4on_b5lFApAXRj4Pn1xphyphenhyphenb7v31V6G2ySaiiMAaTUGvDaGU9KBuRLfQjU/s1600/2014-01-16+20.22.40.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">and veal tartare with beets and sunny-side-up egg.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4zZpYpJBC4dHdPuybAcV-m8cbakXsl_GBfZJEe5cs43lBcA8yVuzN63OiCydCTk1budki1Z_E_hgLwZO4qaX8zGb6ny2ZUSd_O2RPxiO0CgBMQs2v7D7zcfS3SNn_S9Rgt9HJxkLHyGQ/s1600/2014-01-16+19.30.01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4zZpYpJBC4dHdPuybAcV-m8cbakXsl_GBfZJEe5cs43lBcA8yVuzN63OiCydCTk1budki1Z_E_hgLwZO4qaX8zGb6ny2ZUSd_O2RPxiO0CgBMQs2v7D7zcfS3SNn_S9Rgt9HJxkLHyGQ/s1600/2014-01-16+19.30.01.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">6 </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Jégo develops his stocks over weeks and weeks, adding a freshly made batch to the deeply flavored original every day.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">2 </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">remain on the menu year after year—creamy parmesan soup and </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">over-the-top rice pudding, enriched with whipped cream and a salted caramel sauce. Jégo constantly changes the other dishes.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">3</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Jégo lets the hare for his lièvre à la </span><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">royale marinate for near a month, then cooks it for 12 hours and leaves it in its cooking liquid to develop even more before serving.</span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07183080648783638696noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4767579763086911045.post-37817051935800792862014-01-16T07:48:00.000-08:002014-01-16T07:48:15.539-08:00A Night in the Life of Paris chef Yves Camdeborde<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">6:45 p.m.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Kisses a regular at L'Avant-Comptoir, the chef's hors-d'oeuvres spot next door to his much-celebrated Paris bistro, Le Comptoir du Relais </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #006621; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 16px; white-space: nowrap;">hotel-paris-</span><b style="background-color: white; color: #006621; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 16px; white-space: nowrap;">relais</b><span style="background-color: white; color: #006621; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 16px; white-space: nowrap;">-saint-germain.com</span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">. Camdeborde recently revamped the space, installing a full kitchen and screen of plastic strips painted with a frisky pig to separate the bustling bar from the take-out counter and blasts of cold air. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTOwCwn2rWDvUmk7ieEcdXo5O48EBGPdJKxYWdhe1p0tRCJyGWiHKqkMlaITXpZph5ot3boBg37kQHwkPnPpJVaNOq_h8M9ObRq6EvToKuPQAuhisUFHbNlwItgppJSF4wnCIJ40obReM/s1600/2014-01-15+19.02.10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTOwCwn2rWDvUmk7ieEcdXo5O48EBGPdJKxYWdhe1p0tRCJyGWiHKqkMlaITXpZph5ot3boBg37kQHwkPnPpJVaNOq_h8M9ObRq6EvToKuPQAuhisUFHbNlwItgppJSF4wnCIJ40obReM/s1600/2014-01-15+19.02.10.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">On the counter: must-have seasonings for a Paris chef—Dijon mustard and piment d'Espelette.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT-Y_dDfLzo7ZnPHY7LZOstwn5kjt0W4iFmx76Or3ig63VA18MNcSEMqqbP8cSiUU52U6n8iEcDQK2jxcGlz46W-XLDbfsJL6bMXxPw-CuiKhIK0Gs1FXZTlPJ-OS3m5j2dw-hcl9Ub-w/s1600/2014-01-15+19.05.07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT-Y_dDfLzo7ZnPHY7LZOstwn5kjt0W4iFmx76Or3ig63VA18MNcSEMqqbP8cSiUU52U6n8iEcDQK2jxcGlz46W-XLDbfsJL6bMXxPw-CuiKhIK0Gs1FXZTlPJ-OS3m5j2dw-hcl9Ub-w/s1600/2014-01-15+19.05.07.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Before the dinner rush at Le Comptoir</span><span style="color: #006621; font-family: arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 14px; line-height: 16px; white-space: nowrap;">.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjesidvYfVoeJH318_z29u84MuXVnniZKKj8J7YGqCTY9YNBHAnShDFBIwa-JPr8PePKcc2_thXow8YfNVCZm3iOkA_e6d-vuzRfb61OpKHfzm0csjvOREI5aSBBYywcN69NyzuCq2VySo/s1600/2014-01-15+18.50.29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjesidvYfVoeJH318_z29u84MuXVnniZKKj8J7YGqCTY9YNBHAnShDFBIwa-JPr8PePKcc2_thXow8YfNVCZm3iOkA_e6d-vuzRfb61OpKHfzm0csjvOREI5aSBBYywcN69NyzuCq2VySo/s1600/2014-01-15+18.50.29.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The night's 60-euro prix fixe.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDKaAPXnbf3aVMFxxV1sTImCQ3eTEbfnm4N0F2r1oZuYwc0br6YTIWH4Rsi9aJczKr_YtFEGYHrY_psVyMUdAY3ghmTIaTCOSMxt4NXwYgOtklmqLQXnLgnilGYQ175CSbdWaN8t4lPQs/s1600/2014-01-16+11.08.11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDKaAPXnbf3aVMFxxV1sTImCQ3eTEbfnm4N0F2r1oZuYwc0br6YTIWH4Rsi9aJczKr_YtFEGYHrY_psVyMUdAY3ghmTIaTCOSMxt4NXwYgOtklmqLQXnLgnilGYQ175CSbdWaN8t4lPQs/s1600/2014-01-16+11.08.11.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Chanterelle mushrooms serve as seasonal knife rests.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoO-6wkADe9O2DyGJMvnMwixz2RfX0TCtvSCtrRzZ5y87ZUw644Ee5xUHMi1OrGLdJb6zK2_mgbxP-ldBMgc8xumYHtnAcOtm1vDveiiEWcHpCfVZzqk8pUUpq-H_JfbDXhZwrgIw6tbU/s1600/2014-01-15+19.11.58-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoO-6wkADe9O2DyGJMvnMwixz2RfX0TCtvSCtrRzZ5y87ZUw644Ee5xUHMi1OrGLdJb6zK2_mgbxP-ldBMgc8xumYHtnAcOtm1vDveiiEWcHpCfVZzqk8pUUpq-H_JfbDXhZwrgIw6tbU/s1600/2014-01-15+19.11.58-1.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">8 p.m.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Perched on a stool in his tiny kitchen, Camdeborde retrieves house-dried curly cabbage leaves for the starter. He finely grinds them and rolls three-minute duck eggs in the bright green powder; the eggs come with red wine-shallot sauce. "It's like eggs en meurette," he says, referring to the Burgundy classic poached eggs in wine sauce, "but with a sparkle."</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Three-minute duck egg with cinnamon-dusted bacon, brussels sprouts raw + cooked, kumquats.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxaRNB7SqMJw8_Bf9nRapbZSDMdgnZ80SRUUmlFBcueLxGsdND6ZRHvAsxTOkc00QokqBu4ADZw1PYMMzlkDfgrYH4-Ipm8yLfW80M0oB7t27eB5hdV_X2rkaYW9HgTy3_KwIpjUjDVLw/s1600/2014-01-15+20.37.59.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxaRNB7SqMJw8_Bf9nRapbZSDMdgnZ80SRUUmlFBcueLxGsdND6ZRHvAsxTOkc00QokqBu4ADZw1PYMMzlkDfgrYH4-Ipm8yLfW80M0oB7t27eB5hdV_X2rkaYW9HgTy3_KwIpjUjDVLw/s1600/2014-01-15+20.37.59.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">8:25 p.m.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Disappears to change his chef's jacket.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitBjf0nSyT9WNXBIqaErSyS1vbj5gOfz3Z-LQKYcBIhEDoCJA3puIWHJ7kO_W03rRHUSqoOj19JlxfMV62rHMi9-mdvHD-FPKsp2L1CE7wgVehWUDwIzTJvak4Lpelz3RdSUYrVvAU9ik/s1600/2014-01-15+22.20.21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitBjf0nSyT9WNXBIqaErSyS1vbj5gOfz3Z-LQKYcBIhEDoCJA3puIWHJ7kO_W03rRHUSqoOj19JlxfMV62rHMi9-mdvHD-FPKsp2L1CE7wgVehWUDwIzTJvak4Lpelz3RdSUYrVvAU9ik/s1600/2014-01-15+22.20.21.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Later that night...</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07183080648783638696noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4767579763086911045.post-36362387709245434032014-01-16T05:27:00.001-08:002014-01-19T07:17:09.638-08:00Stats: Le Comptoir du Relais<div style="text-align: center;">
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">10</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">espressos</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The number of cups chef-owner Yves Camdeborde drinks in a day. No cream. No sugar. "It's the warmth I like," says the bistrotier, who sprints nonstop between his restaurant, hotel, wine bar and office—all on one tiny stretch of the carrefour de l'Odéon in the sixth arrondissement. His beans come from Paris coffee roaster L'Arbre à Café, 10 rue du Nil, 2nd arrond.; </span><b style="background-color: white; color: #006621; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 16px; text-align: left; white-space: nowrap;">larbreacafe</b><span style="background-color: white; color: #006621; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 16px; text-align: left; white-space: nowrap;">.com</span><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">4</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">years</span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">spent as a judge on the French TV kitchen competition "MasterChef" (</span><cite class="vurls bc" style="background-color: white; color: #006621; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; white-space: nowrap;">tf1.fr › <a href="http://www.tf1.fr/programmes-tv/" style="color: #006621; cursor: pointer; text-decoration: none;">Programmes</a> › <a href="http://www.tf1.fr/masterchef/" style="color: #006621; cursor: pointer; text-decoration: none;">Masterchef</a> › <a href="http://www.tf1.fr/masterchef/jury/" style="color: #006621; cursor: pointer; text-decoration: none;">Jury</a></cite><span style="background-color: white; color: #666666; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: x-small; line-height: 15px; white-space: nowrap;">). </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">"It was fantastic but I felt like a visitor at my own restaurant," he says. "Le Relais is home."</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">500</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">calls</span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">come in daily to book a dinner table or room at Camdeborde's small, 17th-century hotel, Le Relais Saint-Germain; </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #006621; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 16px; white-space: nowrap;">hotel-paris-</span><b style="background-color: white; color: #006621; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 16px; white-space: nowrap;">relais</b><span style="background-color: white; color: #006621; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 16px; white-space: nowrap;">-</span><b style="background-color: white; color: #006621; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 16px; white-space: nowrap;">saint</b><span style="background-color: white; color: #006621; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 16px; white-space: nowrap;">-</span><b style="background-color: white; color: #006621; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 16px; white-space: nowrap;">germain</b><span style="background-color: white; color: #006621; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 16px; white-space: nowrap;">.com</span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">3 or 4</span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">months</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The wait for Camdeborde's wildly delicious 60-euro weeknight prix fixe. But the chef saves tables for guests at Le Relais Saint-Germain, and chance-takers who show up between 6 and 7 p.m. occasionally get a same-day dinner reservation. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">17</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">years</span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">It took two friends almost two decades to get together for a reunion dinner. They scored a last-minute table at Le Comptoir on the much-anticipated night.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">300</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">lunch customers</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">eat updated bistro classics like whipped haddock mousse with herring caviar in a shellfish gelée and andouillette sandwiches with cornichon butter at Le Comptoir on sunny days.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">5</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">lunch cooks</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"> in a kitchen the size of any other restaurant's coat check room.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">60</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">hors</span> <span style="font-size: large;">d'oeuvres</span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">plus 10 daily specials and 70 wines are offered at L'Avant-Comptoir, Camdeborde's convivial wine bar next door to his bistro and hotel. A discreet plaque defines the word "hors d'oeuvre" for anyone who insists on calling AC a tapas bar. "We have a perfectly good French word for small plates," says the chef.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">3</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">dinner cooks</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">prepare the nightly five-course menu + room service orders.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">42</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">guests</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">are served the set dinner menu Monday to Friday.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">48</span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">hours</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Cambdeborde lets his braised veal breast rest for two full days in an aromatic broth to let the flavors develop. Then he browns it on the plancha, brushes it with garlic-shallot-herb butter (this snail butter adds shine and pungency) and finishes the cooking in the oven.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">240</span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">plates</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">are ferried up the stairs (and down) on napkin-lined trays during the dinner service by one hard-working runner-dishwasher. That's two plates every minute. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">4</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif; font-size: large;">hours</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">The work day of Le Comptoir's tireless plongeur. </span><span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">"Go! Go, Richard," says Cambdeborde. "The mint sorbet is melting!"</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">2,000</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">books</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Camdeborde's collection of current and vintage cookbooks in his office and home.</span></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07183080648783638696noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4767579763086911045.post-32153228367901661512014-01-15T03:51:00.000-08:002014-01-15T15:11:39.291-08:00Food + Art<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #666666; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18px;">Paris patisserie Maison Pradier's winter cut-paper window, 49 bis avenue Franklin Delano Roosevelt, 8th arrond.; </span><span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">pradierparis.com.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #444444; font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12px;">My friend Jessica Palmer specializes in this type of paper-cut design work </span><a href="http://www.jessicapalmerart.com/" style="font-size: 12px;">jessicapalmerart.com</a><span style="font-size: 12px;">.</span></span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07183080648783638696noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4767579763086911045.post-35254245345400626022014-01-13T08:40:00.001-08:002014-01-13T08:40:50.434-08:00Pig I, Pig IITêtes de porc I. Rue de la Convention market, 15th arrond., Paris.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdX4a5onUvv6G5fILXJcbCbmdhas9PIBtBrezLDTMLHyMd4694d-BseOw7Euh7RNRnbq_fo2gUBuSjWfQwZxJjrU7-K9oxjrYlfO2pjdx9LScF0qlqrc9Q0X_Sg4JFvnPH8q7pxtb67XA/s1600/IMG_0002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdX4a5onUvv6G5fILXJcbCbmdhas9PIBtBrezLDTMLHyMd4694d-BseOw7Euh7RNRnbq_fo2gUBuSjWfQwZxJjrU7-K9oxjrYlfO2pjdx9LScF0qlqrc9Q0X_Sg4JFvnPH8q7pxtb67XA/s320/IMG_0002.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Tête de porc II. Chambre du sanglier, Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature, 62 rue des Archives, 3rd arrond., Paris; <span style="background-color: white; color: #006621; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 16px; white-space: nowrap;">fondationfrancoissommer.org.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNGOnOTDwvt56TqdSOiNRv-OI9VVYKvbujBKSEVvOEs5Z5rWjlju6ldzLSbYR_DcRBeasxLGiUDM3ObF407ikaeXXCNvqajud5X0TWABwTaP0-nG6KHW7iheBFDw3yLW8BUqTa_i5PZHg/s1600/IMG_0007.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNGOnOTDwvt56TqdSOiNRv-OI9VVYKvbujBKSEVvOEs5Z5rWjlju6ldzLSbYR_DcRBeasxLGiUDM3ObF407ikaeXXCNvqajud5X0TWABwTaP0-nG6KHW7iheBFDw3yLW8BUqTa_i5PZHg/s320/IMG_0007.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07183080648783638696noreply@blogger.com0