Thursday, January 16, 2014

A Night in the Life of Paris chef Yves Camdeborde

6:45 p.m.
Kisses a regular at L'Avant-Comptoir, the chef's hors-d'oeuvres spot next door to his much-celebrated Paris bistro, Le Comptoir du Relais Camdeborde recently revamped the space, installing a full kitchen and screen of plastic strips painted with a frisky pig to separate the bustling bar from the take-out counter and blasts of cold air. 

On the counter: must-have seasonings for a Paris chef—Dijon mustard and piment d'Espelette.

Before the dinner rush at Le Comptoir.

The night's 60-euro prix fixe.

Chanterelle mushrooms serve as seasonal knife rests.

8 p.m.
Perched on a stool in his tiny kitchen, Camdeborde retrieves house-dried curly cabbage leaves for the starter. He finely grinds them and rolls three-minute duck eggs in the bright green powder; the eggs come with red wine-shallot sauce. "It's like eggs en meurette," he says, referring to the Burgundy classic poached eggs in wine sauce, "but with a sparkle."

Three-minute duck egg with cinnamon-dusted bacon, brussels sprouts raw + cooked, kumquats.

8:25 p.m.
Disappears to change his chef's jacket.

Later that night...

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