Kisses a regular at L'Avant-Comptoir, the chef's hors-d'oeuvres spot next door to his much-celebrated Paris bistro, Le Comptoir du Relais hotel-paris-relais-saint-germain.com. Camdeborde recently revamped the space, installing a full kitchen and screen of plastic strips painted with a frisky pig to separate the bustling bar from the take-out counter and blasts of cold air.
On the counter: must-have seasonings for a Paris chef—Dijon mustard and piment d'Espelette.
Before the dinner rush at Le Comptoir.
The night's 60-euro prix fixe.
Chanterelle mushrooms serve as seasonal knife rests.
Perched on a stool in his tiny kitchen, Camdeborde retrieves house-dried curly cabbage leaves for the starter. He finely grinds them and rolls three-minute duck eggs in the bright green powder; the eggs come with red wine-shallot sauce. "It's like eggs en meurette," he says, referring to the Burgundy classic poached eggs in wine sauce, "but with a sparkle."
Three-minute duck egg with cinnamon-dusted bacon, brussels sprouts raw + cooked, kumquats.
Disappears to change his chef's jacket.
Later that night...