Stats: Le Comptoir du Relais

10

espressos

The number of cups chef-owner Yves Camdeborde drinks in a day. No cream. No sugar. "It's the warmth I like," says the bistrotier, who sprints nonstop between his restaurant, hotel, wine bar and office—all on one tiny stretch of the carrefour de l'Odéon in the sixth arrondissement. His beans come from Paris coffee roaster L'Arbre à Café, 10 rue du  Nil, 2nd arrond.; larbreacafe.com. 

4

years

spent as a judge on the French TV kitchen competition "MasterChef" (tf1.fr › Programmes › Masterchef › Jury‎). "It was fantastic but I felt like a visitor at my own restaurant," he says. "Le Relais is home."

500

calls

come in daily to book a dinner table or room at Camdeborde's small, 17th-century hotel, Le Relais Saint-Germain; hotel-paris-relais-saint-germain.com. 

3 or 4

months

The wait for Camdeborde's wildly delicious 60-euro weeknight prix fixe. But the chef saves tables for guests at Le Relais Saint-Germain, and chance-takers who show up between 6 and 7 p.m. occasionally get a same-day dinner reservation. 

17

years

It took two friends almost two decades to get together for a reunion dinner. They scored a last-minute table at Le Comptoir on the much-anticipated night.

300

lunch customers

eat updated bistro classics like whipped haddock mousse with herring caviar in a shellfish gelée and andouillette sandwiches with cornichon butter at Le Comptoir on sunny days.

5

lunch cooks

 in a kitchen the size of any other restaurant's coat check room.

60

hors d'oeuvres

plus 10 daily specials and 70 wines are offered at L'Avant-Comptoir, Camdeborde's convivial wine bar next door to his bistro and hotel. A discreet plaque defines the word "hors d'oeuvre" for anyone who insists on calling AC a tapas bar. "We have a perfectly good French word for small plates," says the chef.

3

dinner cooks

prepare the nightly five-course menu + room service orders.

42

guests

are served the set dinner menu Monday to Friday.

48

hours

Cambdeborde lets his braised veal breast rest for two full days in an aromatic broth to let the flavors develop. Then he browns it on the plancha, brushes it with garlic-shallot-herb butter (this snail butter adds shine and pungency) and finishes the cooking in the oven.

240

plates

are ferried up the stairs (and down) on napkin-lined trays during the dinner service by one hard-working runner-dishwasher. That's two plates every minute. 

4

hours

The work day of Le Comptoir's tireless plongeur. "Go! Go, Richard," says Cambdeborde. "The mint sorbet is melting!"

2,000

books

Camdeborde's collection of current and vintage cookbooks in his office and home.